NIHIRO

Parting one of the golden-brown pan-fried dumplings with chopsticks releases a steady flow of savoury juices from inside a thick, chewy wrapper. Hand-fashioned from scratch, the signature meat-packed gyoza at Kita-Senju's NIHIRO balance the crunch of cabbage with richly seasoned minced pork. Despite their generous, satisfying heft, they go down easily alongside the restaurant's gentle dipping sauce.

Sharing equal billing with the dumplings are earthenware pots of bubbling mapo tofu and low-temperature-cooked 'mouthwatering' chicken in a lively, piquant dressing. Seasoned with fragrant sansho pepper, the mapo tofu carries the deep umami of minced meat, while the tender poached chicken breast invites sip after sip of drinks or another bowl of rice. Other selections, such as chilli prawns accented by fresh tomato and egg or black-vinegar sweet-and-sour pork, bring fresh, modern touches to classic Chinese profiles.

When you want to sample broadly in smaller bites, the selection of xiaochi (dim sum-style small plates) fits the bill. Offerings include a daily five-plate sampler of market bites, jellyfish dressed lightly with tart plum pulp, and cream cheese steeped in soy sauce infused with garlic and Shaoxing rice wine. Diners can match their drinks to the dishes' richness, choosing from Tsingtao beer, highballs, wine, and distinctive aged Chinese rice wines such as refreshing Shikumen or the smoky, full-bodied Jimo Laojiu.

For a comforting finish, there is fried rice textured with popping tobiko (flying fish roe) and a light dandan noodle bowl whose broth blends black and white sesame seeds. Dessert brings sweet closings such as vanilla ice cream scattered with crunchy crushed pecans, silky mango pudding, or almond tofu, accompanied by cups of Alishan Jin Xuan Taiwanese oolong tea.

The dining room includes counter seating, standard tables, and relaxed sofa arrangements suited to small groups. Tables tend to fill up during the evening, so reserving for dinner ahead of time is recommended.